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So you just bought a spankin’ brand new suit. I trust that you went to a tailor and didn’t pluck one off the rack. There’s more articles on buying a suit that’s tailored to you than there are Kanye West posts – because it can’t be hammered home enough – a suit should fit like a glove!
Not Cutting The Vent Threads
You know that little slit up the back of your suit jacket? Yeah, that’s your vent. It’s there so you can move freely in your well-fitting suit. Actually, they were originally back when suits were a uniform, where the jacket needed to sit over a horse saddle without bunching. History lessons aside, that “X” thread (one over Italian made suits as they’re single vented, or two in British suits because they’re vented on each side), is only there to prevent the fabric from getting rumpled up when it’s shipped to the store. Otherwise, ditch the stitch. Far too many men leave it, and it’s not only wrong – it’s embarrassing.
Cutting The Pocket Threads
One of the first things you’ll notice when you throw your suit jacket on for the first time and try to throw your keys in one of the pockets, is that it’s sewn shut. This is where some men come to the conclusion that it’s supposed to be like that. After all, why would the tailor or salesman leave it that way, right? Because it’s to make the suit look trimmer / better on the rack – that’s why. However, these pocket stitch-leaving men would be right, as far too many men go ahead and cut them open so they can put their keys in there, or jam their hands in to keep them warm. Nuh-uh. You’ll only end up stretching out the fabric, often on one side more so than the other, thus making your suit look lopsided. You keep them stitched up because you want the suit to look as good on you, as it does on the rack – slim and trim.
Leaving The Cuff Button Undone
When you buy an expensive suit (and I hope you did), they’re made with surgeon’s cuffs. They’re called that because surgeons used to wear suit jackets and needed to roll the sleeves up when operating. That’s one of the difference between an expensive suit and cheap one. The expensive one’s cuffs unbutton, whereas the cheap suit’s is sewn shut. So when you get yours home, leave the last button undone to let everyone know that you’re in fact, wearing a well-made quality suit.
Removing The Shoulder Stitches
Ever notice that dotted line down the shoulders of that suit hanging in the store? You should, it’s almost impossible to miss. They’re there so that the tailor can make some temporary adjustments with the suit when you’re trying it on, so that it can then be permanently altered. In the event that they’ve been left in, take them out. But be careful, you want to snip them and not rip them out – otherwise you risk tearing the surrounding fabric.
Using Cheap Hangers
Please tell me you’re not hanging your brand new suit on those wire coat hangers. And tell me they’re not those wire-thin plastic ones either. If you are, you’re going to permanently crease the shoulder pads, which will make it look like you’re wearing the coat hanger when you have your suit on. Suits need wooden hangers. But not just any wooden ones, ones with a thick base that mimic the curve of your shoulder blades. In a perfect world, you suit jacket would always be hanging on you. So think of that when you’re out clothes hanger shopping.
Hanging Your Suit In A Suit Bag
Here’s another suit hanging no-no: leaving it hanging in the suit bag. Those suit bags are for travel, and bringing it to and fro from the dry cleaners. Otherwise, you’re suit should be hanging sans suit bag. This is because your suit is made from quality cotton, wool, silk even – living breathing fabrics that, well, need to breathe. When you stick your suit in its bag, you suffocate it. And should it be hot and humid in your place, then your suit will even start to mould.
Ironing After Your First Wear
So you’ve worn your new suit the whole day. That means you’ve sat in it during the long traffic ridden car ride to and from work, you hung up your jacket on the back of your chair, and now – you’ve got wrinkles and creases. What do most men do, run right for the iron and starting pressing away. Perhaps the biggest suit sin of them all! First of all, apply a hot iron directly to a quality suit and you’ll flatten the fibers, making them look shiny – like those cheap department store ones. But number two, it’s not necessary. Suit fabrics are quite resilient and if left to hang, gravity will do the work of getting rid of most – if not all – of those creases and wrinkles. Worst case scenario if they’re still there – use a steamer.